ON THE WALLABY TRACK
A notebook kept by
Norman Burgess
September – December 1929
Wednesday September 11th
Arrived in Gympie yesterday with the intention of looking at some dairy farms. Saw a few land agents, & got particulars. Would have inspected some but last night turned out cold & windy & today is likewise; had a rather bad attack of asthma so have now made up my mind to go still further North, as I understand that the climate here is generally cooler than in Brisbane. I tried all the land agents also builders here for work in order to pay my fare to the next place but to no avail.
Friday 13th
Arrived in Mackay last night. Saw manager PP Bank who promised to cash cheques etc. Also interviewed some agents this morning. Find there is a butter factory here in course of erection. Sugar cane growing is the chief industry. There is not much dairying done at present. Have got Mr. Arbuthnot’s address and will probably go out to see him this afternoon.
Saturday 14th
Went out to Arbuthnot’s place yesterday afternoon, had intended to stay at General Gordon Hotel, which I had been informed was “a bit rough”. On seeing it I hoped I would never see a really rough place. However I left my pack there and went on to the house, getting a lift from a fruit vendor. Mr Arbuthnot was at home on his own and after I made myself known to him he told me that Mrs A and Isabelle were visiting and would not be home till sundown. He made me afternoon tea and then showed me about the place until the others came along. He then brought Isabelle round to see me without telling her who I was, and she got a great surprise. Young Mrs. Arbuthnot was there too and I met Alex A also. They insisted on my staying the night with them and young Mrs A drove me down to the hotel and back with my port. They have a new Ford. The bus back passes their place at about 8 am but Isabelle said that was too early and got Alex to speak to a neighbour who was coming in at about 1 O’clock and I got a ride with him.
After tea Isabelle played the piano and sang some songs and we talked a good deal about old times.
This morning Alex lent me a pony and took me to look at some land which he considered the best for dairying in that locality. Altogether they were most kind and hospitable and I was very pleased to have met them. Isabelle also gave me a letter of introduction to a local builder.
Monday 16th
Went out yesterday to see a district about 40 miles from here called Silent Grove with Mr. Story or Storie of I J Leonard & Co. Besides the car driver we were accompanied by a Mr. Kearney, a CIB man. We left here about 7 am and travelled along the North Coast Line as far as Mt Ossa. From there we turned to the left and were then in Silent Grove. This country is more suitable for dairying than any I have seen so far in the Mackay district. We inspected one place before lunch and then travelled a few miles before stopping for lunch. After lunch we went on to a selector’s place. His name is Collins. The property has been occupied for about 5 years and is now a fairly good dairy farm. I am going to stay a few days with him in order to get a better insight into local conditions. After seeing this place we went on to Kungurrie and then back to Mackay doing a round trip of 95 miles.
Wednesday 18th September
I called on Mrs. Gibson on Monday afternoon. Mr. Gibson was away further North. I came out to Silent Grove yesterday morning to stay with Mr. Collins here to get a better knowledge of farming conditions. This is one of the few districts around Mackay where dairyfarming is carried on. It seems to me that the price asked for land around here is much too high considering the undeveloped state that it is in. The people around here are living in conditions of pioneering which I hardly expected to find in a district so well populated and so prosperous generally. To get here, I had to catch a train which left Mackay at 2.15 am on Tuesday night. It arrived at Kungurrie at about 8 O’clock having travelled a distance of 34 miles. The last 4½ miles were travelled in a motor truck which was being used to cart cane to and from the station and I got here around 9 am after a very slow trip. I got some new experience today, having used the brush hook for the first time.
Thursday 19th September
Mrs. Collins left early this morning for Mackay where she intends staying a few days. She took the twin boys with her. They are somewhere about four years old and as wild as dingoes. I did not get a close look at either of them until last night and then they kept their faces hidden. Mr. Collins went with them to Kungurrie leaving young Dennis and me to milk the cows. There was one aged cow down and unable to get up that had to be killed and Dennis went to get a neighbour to help him kill it while I went on with the milking. While they were proceeding with their job the neighbour’s dog was bitten by a black snake. Then there was great excitement. They came to me and asked if I had any Condy’s crystals. Luckily I had and I got on a horse and galloped up to the house for them. They lanced the bite and rubbed some of the crystals on. The dog is still very sick and it is doubtful if he will pull through.
There seems to be a good deal of trouble with the cattle here owing to them eating coarse dry grass and failing to properly digest it. The result is a disorder known as “dry bible”. Cattle in fair condition die of it.
The district is suffering quite a drought. People’s house tanks are empty and they have to cart water from the creeks. These people are lucky in that the creek water is almost as soft and clear as rain water.
Saturday 21st September
On Thursday night I went down to Mr. Smith’s place to help some cane cutters to burn cane. We got the patch burned all right and young Dennis and I came home leaving the others to look after the fire. I think they had some rum and were drinking, anyway the fire got away and burned some more cane, also some grass country. Yesterday it broke out again and burned fiercely in the forest country. Mr. Nilson’s cane across the creek got on fire somehow and was all burned. I ran down as soon as I knew it was on fire in case there was someone there trying to save any of it, but there was no one about and the only good I could do was to chase a cow out of the field.
I borrowed a horse from Mr. Collins to come down to see Mr. Dimmock’s place. I left at about 12 O’clock. It was the worst horse I ever rode and had to be flogged pretty well all the way. I called at a camp to ask the way and stumbled onto a job. It is heaping logs in burned scrub and is known as logging up. The wages are a little over 18/- per day. I intend to start on Tuesday and I left some of my luggage at the camp. Coming on, I heard a dog yelping and went to investigate. He was caught in a wallaby snare. I released him and continued the terrible journey. I arrived at Dimmocks place at about 4.30 pm, and found no one in so came on to Wilsons place where I am now, to ask for lodgings for the night.
I went up and saw Mr. Dimmock this morning, and then I had asked a Mr. Martin who was going to Mackay today to pick me up, but he did not put in an appearance so I am stranded, perhaps until Monday. I want to get to Mackay as most of my luggage is there and I wish to buy some blankets and clothes etc. The whole family has gone to a surprise party and I am left here with an old one-armed chap. Nothing to do except write a letter.
Wednesday September 25
Did not get to Mackay until Monday morning. Bought some blankets, working clothes and an axe. These were to be delivered at the railway station but were not there when the train left so I left the ticket with the porter who promised to send them on to Mt Ossa. I arrived at Mt Ossa too late to catch the loco up here and had to leave my ports there and walk up as far as Dimmocks where I camped the night. I came on yesterday morning and started work yesterday afternoon, logging up. I went over to Martins place last night to see if my luggage had come but it had not. When the moon rose at midnight I got up and walked down to the tramway terminus, a distance of 4½ miles.The two ports were there so I carried them back, arriving here at about 4 O’clock.
I did another half day’s logging up, and then at Mr Martin’s request went on to cane planting with a mattock at 4/6 per hundred. I got 200 this afternoon.
Sunday 29th
Have continued cane planting all week. There was another man named Leslie on the job with me. I have improved at the game and can now make good wages provided the supply of plants is kept up. We were short a couple of times last week.
There are five other men in the camp. These are on the logging job and will probably be finished next week. We live a very simple life. Rising early in the morning we have breakfast and get to work by sunrise. Then in a couple of hours’ time we have “smoko” or morning tea. At twelve we have dinner and a good spell. During the afternoon another “smoko” and cease work just after sunset. Then we all go to the creek and have a bath. The loggers-up get especially black. Stripped and lined up in the creek they look like a lot of niggers.
The fare is fairly simple. Coffee and bacon for breakfast with bread and jam or golden syrup. For dinner and tea just bread and meat and potatoes with a stew occasionally and sometimes a damper when we run out of bread. We lately discovered some prickly cucumbers growing wild and these are good eating. One of the men, Long Harry, is a professional cook, but does not get much time to use his talents in this direction.
The parcel of goods from Mackay has not yet turned up so I am going to look for it in the morning. I am now at Mt Ossa, having walked down from the camp. I brought a rug and overcoat also some beef and damper and will camp here tonight.
Thursday October 3rd
I did not have to camp out on Sunday night. A bachelor who lives nearby came for water and on learning that I intended to camp, invited me to occupy a spare bunk in his hut. I went to Mackay and found that the parcel had been sent to Mt Ossa all right and has probably been stolen. I therefore placed the facts in the possession of Mr Kearney who said he would do his best but held out little hope of recovering it. While there I made a statement to the police proving that I was not Walter James Burgess of Queensland who is wanted for not registering his motorcycle.
The loggers finished their contract today. They allowed me for my day’s work. My share of the tucker bill to date is £2/2/6. They are at the present moment away collecting their cheques. In the morning one of them will be cane planting with us. Our job will probably be cut out by the end of next week if the weather keeps fine.
Wednesday October 9th
I am still on the cane planting job but will probably be leaving here on Tuesday morning. I got a letter from Joe Sandilands yesterday saying that he was in Mackay and hoped to see me, so I went down to the telephone and rang him up. I could not get a letter to him until Monday. He has been down Mundubbera way, has a pretty poor opinion of the country down there. I am glad he came for it is pretty stale having no mate in one of these camps or travelling about.
Thursday October 17th
Am now in Mackay. I came in on Tuesday and joined Joe. We have decided to go to the Atherton Tableland and have a look around there. We leave by the Townsville Mail late this afternoon.
Sunday October 20th
Arrived in Cairns on Friday evening. Saw Bob Stewart from Warwick who is teaching in a school here. Joe and I went to a lodge meeting on Saturday night and were given a royal time.
Cairns is a pretty town and seems prosperous. The climate is good. We spent about an hour in Townsville on Friday morning. It is also very pretty, and is about as big as Toowoomba.
Tuesday October 22nd
We arrived in Atherton yesterday. On the way we saw the famous Barron Falls. Owing to the dry weather there is not as much water flowing over them as usual.After arriving we went to a hotel for dinner and got into a conversation with a man who said he was going to Millaa Millaa and offered us a lift to there, a distance of about 30 miles. We took advantage of the offer and got here last about 6 O’clock. We next interviewed Mr. West with a view of leasing a dairy farm as a going concern. He has nothing he can offer just at present but took us with him on some of his trips on other business through the country. The country here is well grassed and beautifully green. Contrary to my previous conceptions, the place is fairly hilly to steep in places. There is a butter factory in course of construction at Millaa Millaa.
We are staying at the local hotel. The show is to be held here next Friday and Saturday. We will most likely stay for that and are trying to get some work.
Wednesday October 23rd
Saw Mr. Mears who is building the local butter factory and was engaged to start tomorrow morning as a carpenter. As my tools were in Atherton I went in for them this morning by rail motor. It was my first ride in one of these. It is cleaner and allows a better view than the ordinary carriage. I could not send the tools on the rail motor so sent them on by goods train ahead. They got here all right.
Sunday 27th October
Started work on Thursday. The job may last for some time. The show was a great success. Particularly the cattle sections. The ball last night was good too. We both went and enjoyed it fairly well though we only knew two girls besides the maids from the hotel. The girls we knew were the Misses Wolley, daughters of a local dairyman. We met them earlier in the week. Today we spent quietly reading and sleeping. We have joined a local library.
Pictures are being shown in the theatre tonight.
Sunday November 3rd
I have been working at the factory all the week. Mr. Mears seems all right to work for. He leaves me pretty well to myself and has put me in charge of another man, an old Russian. He is a good worker but is a bit hard to understand and sometimes misunderstands what I say.
I suffered from blistered hands for a few days, having eight of them on one hand. The local ambulance man gave me a remedy.
Joe has not been doing any work but has been having a good look around. He will be working all next week probably, having a pig yard to build and some road work for the council. We are also giving a price for adding to a cottage and I will leave most of that to him if out price is accepted. We spent all of today being driven about by Mr. West and saw some good properties. Today is the 28th anniversary of my birthday.
Sunday 10th
Have been working at the factory all the week. Today we inspected a property at Peeramon or rather 7 miles out. It seems a good proposition so I secured an option on it. Will probably take it unless something better turns up. The price I gave for the additions to the house on Mr. McHugh’s farm has been accepted and I think I will give the factory job up and get straight on with it.
Wednesday 13th November
I have made an offer to the Eacham Pastoral Company as agents for Mr. Druce, owner of the farm near Peeramon as per option already given but subject to an alteration to the effect that the interest on the remaining £1,200 shall be 6% insterad of 7%. I made out a cheque for £100 which is to be part of the deposit should Druce agree to the alteration, but to be returned to me if he refuses to do so. I got a receipt signed by Mr. Johnson stating these conditions for it.
Sunday 17th
We went to a lodge meeting last night. Lodge Millaa had its annual Installation meeting and banquet. It is a good lodge considering the size of the place and the banquet would have done justice to any gathering. There were about sixty present.
Mr. Johnson informed me last night that Mr. Druce has changed his mind about selling his place and in order to defeat the option already given has increased his overdraft at the bank by drawing a cheque for £400.
Joe and I started adding to the cottage on Mr. McHugh’s farm on Friday. We are to receive £20 from Mr. McHugh and £5 from Mr. West as agent for the tenant.
Monday 18th
We went out with Mr. West last night and saw a Mr. Gray about sub leasing a property from him. His terms briefly are £860 for pick of 60 cows from herd of 71, pigs, plant etc. We instructed Mr. West to proceed with the deal without further delay. I went to Mr. Johnson tonight and got my cheque back and destroyed same.
Sunday 29th
We went out to Gray’s place on Friday night and signed up a Sale Note thus clinching the deal. I paid in a cheque for £100 to Hardings Ltd. Have agreed to pay a further £200 on Decemder 23rd. Joe puts in his £300 in January thus making £600. The remaining £250 is being advanced by Hardings Ltd at 8% interest.
We have got on fairly well with the addition job though I was a bit off colour for a couple of days owing to the heat on the day I put the iron on the roof. We take over Gray’s lease on the first of December. I will be leaving for Brisbane probably on Tuesday next week.
Saturday 14th December
I left Millaa Millaa on Tuesday Dec 3rd as I expected. Went to Yungaburra by rail motor and from there to Cairns by service car which traversed the beautiful scenic range road and Mulgrave Valley. Also we stopped for morning tea at Lake Barrine. Caught the Townsville train at 8.45 on Wednesday morning and arrived in Brisbane on Friday about noon. I stayed in Brisbane until the following Tuesday when I went home to see my people. I also called on Mr. Sandilands on Wednesday morning and came back to Brisbane the same day.
While in Brisbane I have been enjoying myself very much. Yesterday was spent at Wellington Point, a place I had not been to before.
Note: In the end it was only Joe who settled in Millaa Millaa. Norman bought a farm in the Mundubbera area. He and Mary Sandilands became engaged after this trip, and were married in 1932.
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